Entomology

Properly preserved and stored pinned insects will not decay in the traditional sense—they can last for decades, centuries, or even indefinitely. Museum collections contain specimens over 200 years old that remain in excellent condition. However, pinned insects do face specific threats that can cause deterioration if not properly managed, including pest damage, mold, color fading, and physical breakdown.

Why Pinned Insects Don't Decay Like Other Organisms

The Exoskeleton Advantage

Insects have a chitinous exoskeleton that is naturally resistant to decomposition:

• Chitin is extremely durable: This biological polymer resists bacterial and fungal breakdown
• No soft tissues exposed: Internal organs dry out completely during preservation
• Low moisture content: Properly dried specimens contain minimal water to support microbial growth
• Natural preservation: The exoskeleton essentially mummifies the insect

Museum Evidence

Natural history museums worldwide maintain insect collections dating back to the 1700s and 1800s. These centuries-old specimens remain scientifically valuable and visually intact, proving that proper preservation creates essentially permanent specimens.

What Can Cause Deterioration

While pinned insects don't decay, they face other threats:

1. Pest Damage (The Primary Threat)

Dermestid beetles (carpet beetles) and clothes moths are the greatest danger to insect collections:

• Their larvae feed on dried insect specimens
• Can destroy entire collections if left unchecked
• Leave behind frass (insect droppings) and damaged specimens
• Particularly attracted to poorly sealed collections

Prevention:

• Store specimens in tightly sealed cases or frames
• Use paradichlorobenzene or naphthalene (mothballs) in storage boxes
• Inspect collections regularly for signs of infestation
• Freeze infested specimens at -20°C for 72 hours to kill pests
• Keep storage areas clean and dust-free

2. Mold and Fungal Growth

High humidity can cause mold to grow on specimens:

• Appears as white, fuzzy growth on body or wings
• Damages specimen structure and appearance
• Most common in tropical or humid climates
• Can spread rapidly through collections

Prevention:

• Maintain relative humidity below 50-60%
• Use silica gel packets in storage containers
• Ensure specimens are completely dry before storage
• Provide adequate air circulation
• Store in climate-controlled environments

3. Color Fading

Light exposure causes pigment-based colors to fade:

• UV radiation is particularly damaging
• Reds, yellows, and greens fade fastest
• Blues and blacks are more stable
• Structural colors (iridescence) never fade

Prevention:

• Display away from direct sunlight
• Use UV-protective glass in frames
• Store in dark or low-light conditions when not displayed
• Rotate displayed specimens periodically
• Consider LED lighting with minimal UV output

4. Physical Breakdown

Mechanical damage from handling or environmental stress:

• Antennae and legs can become brittle and break
• Wings may crack or tear if specimens are moved roughly
• Extreme temperature fluctuations cause expansion/contraction
• Very old specimens become increasingly fragile

Prevention:

• Minimize handling of specimens
• Maintain stable temperature (avoid fluctuations)
• Support delicate parts during any movement
• Use proper storage containers that prevent shifting

5. Grease Staining

Oil migration in some large-bodied insects:

• Internal fats can seep through body wall over time
• Creates dark, greasy stains on paper or labels
• Most common in large beetles and grasshoppers
• Doesn't destroy specimen but affects appearance

Prevention:

• Properly eviscerate large-bodied specimens during preparation
• Use absorbent materials beneath specimens
• Replace stained backing materials as needed

Lifespan by Insect Type

Indefinite Lifespan (With Proper Care)

• Beetles: Hard exoskeletons make them extremely durable; can last centuries
• True bugs: Similar durability to beetles
• Cicadas: Robust bodies preserve well indefinitely

Very Long Lifespan (100+ Years)

• Butterflies and moths: Delicate but can last centuries with care
• Dragonflies: Fragile but stable once properly dried
• Grasshoppers and mantids: Large bodies well-preserved

Considerations for Longevity

• Preparation quality: Properly dried specimens last longer
• Storage conditions: Climate control is critical
• Pest management: The single most important factor
• Handling frequency: Less handling = longer lifespan

Optimal Storage Conditions

Temperature

• Ideal: 18-22°C (64-72°F)
• Avoid fluctuations greater than 5°C
• Cooler is generally better (slows any degradation)
• Avoid freezing unless treating for pests

Humidity

• Ideal: 40-50% relative humidity
• Below 30%: specimens become brittle
• Above 60%: mold risk increases significantly
• Use hygrometers to monitor levels

Light

• Store in darkness when possible
• Display under low-UV lighting
• Limit light exposure to 50-150 lux for displayed specimens
• Use UV-filtering glass or acrylic

Air Quality

• Good ventilation prevents mold
• Avoid pollutants and chemical fumes
• Keep storage areas clean and dust-free
• Use sealed containers for long-term storage

Signs Your Specimens Need Attention

Regular inspection helps catch problems early:

Immediate Action Required

• Live pests or larvae: Freeze entire collection immediately
• Frass (insect droppings): Indicates active pest infestation
• Mold growth: Isolate affected specimens and reduce humidity
• Specimen collapse: May indicate internal decay or pest damage

Preventive Maintenance Needed

• Fading colors: Reduce light exposure
• Brittle antennae or legs: Increase humidity slightly or reduce handling
• Dust accumulation: Clean storage area and seal containers better
• Grease stains: Replace backing materials

Comparing Preservation Methods

Pinned and Dried (Standard Method)

• Lifespan: Indefinite with proper care
• Pros: Natural appearance, easy display, minimal maintenance
• Cons: Requires pest management, some color fading possible

Alcohol Preservation (Wet Collections)

• Lifespan: Indefinite if alcohol maintained
• Pros: No pest issues, preserves soft tissues
• Cons: Colors fade completely, not suitable for display, requires alcohol maintenance

Resin Embedding

• Lifespan: Very long (decades to centuries)
• Pros: Complete protection, no pest issues, durable
• Cons: Cannot be studied scientifically, colors may change, expensive

Museum-Quality Preservation Standards

Professional collections follow strict protocols:

• Climate-controlled storage facilities
• Regular pest monitoring and treatment
• Archival-quality materials (acid-free papers, stainless pins)
• Detailed documentation and labeling
• Minimal handling with proper techniques
• Sealed storage in specialized cabinets

The Bottom Line

Pinned insects do not decay in the traditional biological sense. With proper care, they can last:

• Decades: With basic care (sealed frame, moderate conditions)
• Centuries: With museum-quality storage and pest management
• Indefinitely: Under optimal conditions with active preservation

The primary threats are pests, mold, and light damage—all preventable with proper storage and care. The specimens themselves are inherently stable and non-perishable.

Professionally Preserved Specimens

Our collection features museum-quality specimens prepared using archival methods and materials designed for maximum longevity. Each insect is properly dried, mounted with stainless steel pins, and ready for long-term display. With basic care, these specimens will remain beautiful for generations.

Explore Our Lasting Collection

Softening dried insects—a process called "relaxing"—is essential for pinning and spreading specimens that have become stiff and brittle. Using a relaxing chamber to rehydrate dried insects allows you to position wings, legs, and antennae without damage, making it possible to create museum-quality displays from specimens collected days, months, or even years earlier.

Why Insects Need to Be Softened

The Problem with Dried Insects

When insects die and dry out naturally, they become rigid and brittle:

• Wings become stiff and impossible to spread without breaking
• Legs and antennae snap off with minimal pressure
• Bodies become hard and difficult to pin
• Attempting to position dried specimens causes irreparable damage

When Relaxing Is Necessary

• Specimens stored in envelopes (papered butterflies)
• Insects collected in the field and dried for transport
• Old specimens that need repositioning or repair
• Beetles and bugs stored loose in boxes
• Any specimen that has been dry for more than 24-48 hours

The Relaxing Chamber Method (Standard Technique)

What You'll Need

• Airtight container (plastic storage box with tight-fitting lid)
• Moisture source: wet sand, damp paper towels, or sponge
• Platform or screen to elevate specimens above water
• Mold inhibitor: white vinegar, phenol, or thymol
• Paper towels or tissue
• Labels to track specimens

Step-by-Step Setup

1. Prepare the Moisture Source

• Add 1-2 inches of clean sand to container bottom and saturate with water
• OR place several layers of damp (not dripping) paper towels in bottom
• Sand method is preferred—maintains more consistent humidity
• Ensure no standing water pools in container

2. Add Mold Prevention

• Add 1-2 tablespoons of white vinegar to the water/sand
• OR add a few drops of phenol or carbolic acid
• OR place a small amount of thymol crystals in the chamber
• This prevents mold growth during the relaxing process

3. Create a Platform

• Place a screen, mesh, or perforated platform above the moisture source
• Specimens should not touch the water directly
• Platform allows humidity to reach specimens from below
• Crumpled paper towels can work as a simple platform

4. Add Your Specimens

• Place dried insects on the platform
• Don't overcrowd—allow air circulation around each specimen
• Keep specimens in their envelopes if papered
• Include labels so you can track which specimens are which

5. Seal and Wait

• Close the container tightly to maintain humidity
• Place in a warm location (20-25°C / 68-77°F)
• Warmth speeds the relaxing process
• Do not place in direct sunlight

Relaxing Time by Insect Type

Small, Delicate Insects (12-24 hours)

• Small butterflies and moths
• Flies and small bees
• Delicate-bodied insects

Medium Insects (24-48 hours)

• Most butterflies and moths
• Medium beetles
• Dragonflies and damselflies
• True bugs

Large, Robust Insects (48-72 hours)

• Large moths (Atlas, Luna, etc.)
• Large beetles (Goliath, Hercules, etc.)
• Grasshoppers and mantids
• Cicadas

Very Old or Extremely Dry Specimens (3-7 days)

• Specimens dried for months or years
• Very large-bodied insects
• Check daily and extend time as needed

Testing for Readiness

Check specimens periodically to avoid over-relaxing:

• Gently try to move a leg or antenna with forceps
• Should bend smoothly without resistance or breaking
• Wings should flex slightly when touched
• Body should have some give when gently pressed
• If still stiff, return to chamber for 12-24 more hours
• If too soft or limp, remove and allow to dry slightly (1-2 hours)

Alternative Relaxing Methods

Hot Water Method (Quick Relaxing)

For urgent situations or very small insects:

• Boil water and let cool to just below boiling
• Hold specimen over steam for 30-60 seconds using forceps
• OR place in sealed container with hot damp towel for 15-30 minutes
• Works quickly but risks damage if overheated
• Not recommended for delicate butterflies

Injection Method (For Large-Bodied Insects)

For grasshoppers, mantids, and large beetles:

• Use a fine syringe to inject water or relaxing solution into body cavity
• Inject through soft membranes between body segments
• Softens from inside out
• Speeds relaxing of thick-bodied specimens
• Requires practice to avoid damage

Ammonia Method (Museum Technique)

For very old or stubborn specimens:

• Add a few drops of household ammonia to relaxing chamber
• Ammonia helps break down dried tissues
• Use sparingly—too much can damage specimens
• Work in well-ventilated area
• Not necessary for most specimens

Common Relaxing Problems and Solutions

Problem: Mold Growth on Specimens

Causes:

• Insufficient mold inhibitor in chamber
• Specimens left too long in high humidity
• Chamber too warm

Solutions:

• Add more vinegar or phenol to chamber
• Check specimens more frequently
• Remove and gently brush off mold with soft brush
• Re-dry specimen and start over with fresh chamber

Problem: Specimens Still Brittle After 72 Hours

Causes:

• Insufficient humidity in chamber
• Specimens very old or heavily dried
• Container not properly sealed

Solutions:

• Add more water to sand/towels
• Check seal on container
• Try injection method for large specimens
• Continue relaxing for several more days

Problem: Wings or Legs Falling Off

Causes:

• Over-relaxing (too soft)
• Specimen damaged before relaxing
• Rough handling during testing

Solutions:

• Remove from chamber immediately
• Allow to dry slightly before pinning
• Handle only with fine forceps
• Reattach parts with archival glue if necessary

Problem: Uneven Softening

Causes:

• Thick body vs. thin wings relax at different rates
• Some parts touching moisture source

Solutions:

• This is normal—wings relax faster than bodies
• Pin when wings are pliable even if body still slightly stiff
• Ensure specimens elevated evenly on platform

After Relaxing: Immediate Pinning

Work quickly once specimens are relaxed:

• Remove specimens from chamber one at a time
• Pin and spread immediately while still pliable
• Relaxed specimens will re-stiffen within hours if not pinned
• If you can't pin immediately, return to chamber
• Don't leave relaxed specimens sitting out—they'll dry unevenly

Tips for Success

Best Practices

• Label specimens before placing in chamber
• Check daily to prevent over-relaxing and mold
• Keep a log of when each specimen entered the chamber
• Use separate chambers for different insect types if possible
• Replace sand/towels if they develop mold
• Clean and dry chamber completely between uses

What Not to Do

• Don't submerge specimens in water—damages colors and structure
• Don't use hot water directly on delicate butterflies
• Don't leave specimens in chamber for weeks—mold will develop
• Don't skip mold inhibitor—it's essential
• Don't overcrowd the chamber—reduces air circulation

Relaxing Specific Insect Types

Butterflies and Moths

• Keep in glassine envelopes during relaxing
• 24-48 hours typically sufficient
• Test by gently flexing wing base
• Spread immediately after removing from chamber

Beetles

• Can be placed directly on platform
• Legs and antennae relax faster than body
• 24-48 hours for most species
• Large species may need 3-5 days

Dragonflies and Damselflies

• Very delicate—check frequently
• 24-36 hours usually sufficient
• Wings relax quickly but abdomen takes longer
• Handle with extreme care when relaxed

Grasshoppers and Mantids

• Large bodies require 48-72 hours minimum
• Consider injection method to speed process
• Legs relax before body
• May need internal support when pinning

Professional Alternative

Relaxing and pinning insects requires patience, proper equipment, and considerable skill. Many collectors prefer professionally prepared specimens that eliminate the need for relaxing chambers and technical preparation, offering:

• Expert spreading and positioning
• No risk of mold or damage during relaxing
• Immediate display readiness
• Museum-quality results
• Ethical sourcing documentation

Ready-to-Display Specimens

Our collection features professionally prepared insects that have been expertly relaxed, spread, and mounted by skilled entomologists. Every specimen is ready for immediate display, eliminating the complexity of the relaxing process while ensuring museum-quality results.

Explore Our Professional Collection

Insect pinning follows standardized rules developed over centuries to ensure specimens are scientifically useful, aesthetically pleasing, and consistently prepared across collections worldwide. These rules cover pin placement, specimen height, pin angle, labeling, and handling techniques—creating a universal language for entomological preparation that allows specimens to be studied, compared, and displayed effectively.

The Universal Rules of Insect Pinning

Rule 1: Pin Placement Varies by Insect Order

The most fundamental rule: where you insert the pin depends on the insect's taxonomic group.

Lepidoptera (Butterflies and Moths)

• Pin vertically through the center of the thorax
• Exactly between the wing bases
• Pin should emerge centered on the underside
• Never pin through the abdomen or head

Coleoptera (Beetles)

• Pin through the right elytron (wing cover)
• About 1/3 from the front of the body
• Slightly right of center to avoid internal organs
• Pin should emerge between middle and hind legs on underside

Hemiptera (True Bugs)

• Pin through the scutellum (triangular plate between wing bases)
• Centered on the scutellum
• Keeps wings and body symmetrical

Hymenoptera (Bees, Wasps, Ants)

• Pin vertically through the center of the thorax
• Between the wing bases (if wings present)
• Similar to Lepidoptera placement

Diptera (Flies)

• Pin through the right side of the thorax
• Slightly right of center
• Between wing bases

Orthoptera (Grasshoppers, Crickets, Mantids)

• Pin through the right side of the pronotum (plate behind head)
• Angled slightly to the right
• Allows legs to be positioned naturally

Odonata (Dragonflies and Damselflies)

• Pin through the thorax at a slight angle
• From upper right to lower left
• Supports the long abdomen
• Some preparators pin horizontally through the thorax

Rule 2: Standardized Pin Height

Specimens must be positioned at a consistent height on the pin for uniform appearance and proper labeling.

Standard Height:

• Specimen positioned 1/3 down from the pin head
• Approximately 15-20mm from the top of the pin
• Use a pinning block to ensure consistency
• Leaves 2/3 of pin below specimen for labels

Why This Matters:

• Allows room for data labels below specimen
• Creates uniform appearance in collections
• Prevents damage when handling by pin
• Standard across museums worldwide

Rule 3: Pin Must Be Vertical (Usually)

General Rule:

• Pin should be perpendicular to the specimen's body
• Inserted straight down, not at an angle
• Specimen should sit level when pin is vertical
• Exceptions: Orthoptera and Odonata may use slight angles

Why Vertical Matters:

• Prevents specimen from sliding down pin
• Ensures stability in storage
• Allows proper viewing from all angles
• Maintains professional appearance

Rule 4: Use the Correct Pin Size

Insect pins come in standardized sizes (000 to 7), with specific sizes for different insects.

Pin Size Chart:

• Size 000-00: Micro-insects (rarely used; minuten pins preferred)
• Size 0: Small, delicate insects (small butterflies, tiny beetles)
• Size 1: Small to medium insects (most small butterflies, medium beetles)
• Size 2: Medium insects (most butterflies and moths, average beetles) - MOST COMMON
• Size 3: Large insects (large moths, big beetles, cicadas)
• Size 4-7: Very large insects (rarely needed; mostly tropical giants)

Selection Guidelines:

• Pin should support specimen without bending
• Should not be so thick it damages the body
• When in doubt, use size 2 (the standard)
• Use stainless steel pins to prevent rust

Rule 5: Never Touch Wings or Delicate Parts

Handling Rules:

• Handle specimens only by the pin or body
• Never touch butterfly or moth wings with fingers
• Oils from skin damage wing scales permanently
• Use fine forceps for positioning legs and antennae
• Support specimen from below when inserting pin

Rule 6: Spread Lepidoptera Symmetrically

Butterflies and moths must be spread according to specific standards.

Wing Position Rules:

• Forewing angle: Rear margin perpendicular to body (90° angle)
• Hindwing position: Rear margin just touching forewing
• Symmetry: Both sides must mirror each other exactly
• Antennae: Positioned forward and parallel
• Body alignment: Straight, not curved or twisted

Why Symmetry Matters:

• Allows accurate species identification
• Shows wing patterns completely
• Creates aesthetically pleasing displays
• Standard for scientific collections

Rule 7: Position Legs and Antennae Naturally

For All Insects:

• Legs should be arranged in natural, lifelike positions
• Not splayed awkwardly or broken
• Antennae positioned forward (not backward or broken)
• Use pins to hold parts in place during drying

Specific Guidelines:

• Beetles: Legs tucked close to body or slightly extended
• Butterflies: Legs against body, not visible from above
• Grasshoppers: Hind legs extended to show jumping adaptation
• Mantids: Forelegs in characteristic "praying" position

Rule 8: Label Every Specimen

Unlabeled specimens have minimal scientific or educational value.

Required Label Information:

• Collection data: Location, date, collector name
• Identification: Scientific name (genus and species)
• Determiner: Who identified it and when

Label Placement Rules:

• Labels pinned on the same pin below the specimen
• Collection data label closest to specimen
• Identification label below collection data
• Labels should be small, neat, and readable
• Use archival paper and permanent ink

Rule 9: Pin Specimens While Fresh or Properly Relaxed

Timing Rules:

• Fresh specimens: Pin within 24 hours of death
• Dried specimens: Must be relaxed in humidity chamber first
• Never force dried specimens—they will break
• Relaxing takes 24-72 hours depending on size

Rule 10: Use Proper Drying Time

Drying Standards:

• Specimens must dry completely before storage
• Small insects: 3-7 days
• Medium butterflies: 7-14 days
• Large moths and beetles: 14-21 days
• Test by gently touching abdomen—should be completely rigid
• Insufficient drying causes wings to droop and mold to develop

Advanced Pinning Rules

Point Mounting (For Small Insects)

When to Use:

• Insects smaller than 10mm
• Too small for direct pinning without damage

Point Mounting Rules:

• Cut triangular card points from stiff paper
• Pin goes through wide end of triangle
• Insect glued to point tip on its right side
• Use minimal adhesive (archival glue)
• Allows viewing of underside

Double Mounting (For Micro-Insects)

Minuten Pin Method:

• Ultra-fine minuten pin through tiny insect
• Minuten pin inserted into small cork or pith block
• Standard pin through the block
• Used for insects 2-5mm in size

Special Techniques

Large-Bodied Insects:

• May require internal support or stuffing
• Abdomen can be injected with preservative
• Support pins placed under abdomen during drying

Dragonflies:

• Long abdomen may need support wire
• Wings can be spread or left in natural position
• Colors fade quickly—dry in darkness

Common Pinning Mistakes to Avoid

Critical Errors

• Wrong pin placement: Damages specimen or makes it unstable
• Pin at an angle: Specimen slides down or looks unprofessional
• Inconsistent height: Collection looks messy and unprofessional
• Touching wings: Permanent damage to scales and colors
• Asymmetrical spreading: Ruins display value
• No labels: Specimen loses scientific and educational value
• Insufficient drying: Wings droop, mold develops
• Wrong pin size: Too thin (bends) or too thick (damages body)

Aesthetic Mistakes

• Broken or missing antennae
• Legs in unnatural positions
• Crooked body alignment
• Uneven wing angles
• Visible glue or repair attempts

Museum Standards vs. Display Standards

Scientific Collections (Strict Rules)

• Exact pin placement by taxonomic order
• Standardized height using pinning blocks
• Complete labeling with all data
• Natural positioning (not artistic poses)
• Preservation of all parts for study

Display Collections (More Flexible)

• Aesthetic appeal prioritized
• Symmetry and visual impact emphasized
• Labeling may be simplified
• Artistic arrangements acceptable
• Still follows basic pinning placement rules

Why These Rules Matter

Scientific Value

• Standardization allows comparison across collections
• Proper labeling preserves research data
• Correct positioning allows accurate identification
• Specimens remain useful for centuries

Aesthetic Value

• Consistent preparation creates professional appearance
• Symmetrical spreading showcases natural beauty
• Proper positioning creates lifelike displays
• Collections look cohesive and intentional

Preservation Value

• Correct techniques prevent damage
• Proper drying prevents mold and decay
• Appropriate pin size ensures stability
• Specimens last for generations

Learning Proper Technique

Resources for Beginners:

• Entomological society workshops
• Museum preparation guides
• University extension programs
• Online tutorials and videos
• Practice with common, abundant species first

Essential Skills to Develop:

• Steady hand for precise pin placement
• Patience for symmetrical spreading
• Gentle touch for delicate specimens
• Attention to detail for labeling
• Understanding of insect anatomy

Professional Alternative

Mastering insect pinning rules requires practice, specialized equipment, and considerable time investment. Many collectors prefer professionally prepared specimens that guarantee:

• Correct pin placement for each insect order
• Perfect symmetry and positioning
• Museum-quality standards
• Proper labeling and documentation
• Immediate display readiness

Museum-Quality Prepared Specimens

Our collection features insects prepared by expert entomologists who follow strict museum standards for pinning, spreading, and labeling. Every specimen demonstrates proper technique, ensuring both scientific accuracy and aesthetic excellence—ready for display or study.

Explore Our Professionally Pinned Collection

Interesting Facts about the Fire Ant 

No matter where you live in the world chances are you have come across ants in your yard or home at one time or another. You would think ants are just ants and are no more than an annoyance. A little spray will take care of the problem. Maybe not so with the Fire Ant. Believe it or not they are one of the most destructive insects on the planet. There are four species of ants in the US but the red Fire Ant is the most common species and is domineering over the other species by interbreeding.

They are located primarily throughout the southern and southeastern United States but they have spread as far north as Maryland and as far west as California. Why are they more than just a pesky pest?

• When they bite a human there is a painful sting.
• They cause substantial crop and livestock losses.
• They are estimated to cost us over $750 million in damages a year.
• They are much more aggressive than a typical ant.

If a person happens to step on a mound in their yard the Fire Ant will viciously attack the target and to some humans the bites instead of just stinging can become infected and even leave scars.

Here is a little trick if you are up to it to distinguish if you are dealing with Fire Ants or some other type. If you find a mound out in the yard or elsewhere, take a stick and put it down the center of the mound then back away. If the ants scatter they are not fire ants because they are trying to protect the queen. But if they climb up the stick it is time to run like hell!

Ofcourse i dont reccomend disturbing an ants nest in any way - they are best left alone!